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Grant-aided expedition reports archive

The following summaries are from expeditions which have received bursary funding from Mountaineering Scotland. Click on the report name to see a pdf of the full report. Those without a link to pdf are available for viewing at the Mountaineering Scotland office in Perth


Competition climbing

UK and Europe

2015

William Bosi supported to take part in international youth climbing competitions



Ice climbing competitions

Europe

2015

Anna Wells supported to take part in the Ice Climbing World Cup


Competition climbing

UK and international

2014

William Bosi supported to compete at national and international levels



Speed climbing

UK & Europe

2014

Alexander Bosi supported to compete at national and international level and continue to improve his performance


St Elias Range

Canada

2013

Attempt by Paul Schweizer and Simon Yates to climb the North Spur of Mount St Elias. Beaten by stormy weather.



Competition climbing

Europe

2013

Rachel Carr was one of only two Scots selected for the GB Bouldering Team to take part in the major European competitions



Tien Shan

Kyrgyzstan

2013

Five past and present members of Glasgow University Mountaineering Club aiming for new, Alpine style routes in the Dzhirnagaktu region of Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan



European Alps

2013

Tim and Anna Wells aim to climb as many 4000m peaks as possible from the UIAA list of 82 within a single season


Sport and trad climbing

Spain and UK

2012

Ross Kirkland visists Spain to climb 8b



Zanskar
India
2012

Members of the SMC make three first ascents on peaks in the Giabul Nala area of Zanskar


Nanga Parbat
Himalaya
2012

Sandy Allen and Rick Allen complete one of the most audacious 'Last Great Problems' of Himalayan climbing


Ruth Gorge
Alaska
2012

Iain Peter & Allen Fyffe climb some of the classic hard established routes on Mooses's Tooth in the Ruth Gorge


Staunings Alps
Greenland
2011

Members of the SMC travel to the Staunings Alps and climb new routes of peaks around the Lang (Stor) Glacier

SMC East Greenland Expedition 2011



Sport climbing
Spain
2011

Scott Kier travels to Siurana, Spain to train and achieve his goal of leading 7a


Sport climbing
Spain
2011

Ross Kirkland takes a 10 week trip round Spain to gain experience to climb 8b, followed by volunteering with the MCofS REAlrock Spanish Meet


Mixed rock and ice

India

2011

Jonathan Bull climbs with the Imperial College expedition to Raru Valley, Ladakh and climbs seven new routes reaching four summits up to 6276m


Sport climbing & competitions
Europe
2011

Rachel Carr trains in Siurana, Spain, followed by competitions: Leading Ladder (4th), SYCC (1st), BSCC (1st), SYBC (1st), EYC Kranj (23rd), Alien Bouldering (2nd), TCA Redpoint (1st) and Irish Bouldering Champs (2nd)


Ice climbing
Morocco
2011

Oliver Metherell completes his Super7 Odessy with Andy Stokes & James Mehigan on a first ascent of Fountains Gully on Afella, Morocco High Atlas


Sport climbing and competitions
Europe
2011

Jonathan Field competes in the Youth Open, BLCC and EYC in Kranj followed by a 2nd place in the GB Team Trials for 2012


Exploratory mixed peaks

Afghanistan

2010

Alan Halewood and Neal Gwyne make first ascents in The Little Pamir mountains of the Wakhan Corridor in NE Afghanistan


Mixed rock and ice on big, remote mountains
Antarctic
2010

Oliver Metherell joins the Alpine Club Expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula where they climbed eight summits, five being first ascents and one a new route


Sport Climbing in Ceuse and Kalymnos & International Competitions

Europe

2010

Jonathan Field Sport Climbing in Ceuse and Kalymnos and competing at World \Youth and European Youth Internationals



Catalunya
Spain
2010

Ross Kirkland travels to Santa Linya, Siruana and Rodellar to push his on-sighting grade to 8a


Torugart-Too
Kyrgyzstan
2010

Robert Taylor, John Proctor and Adam Russell from Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club made the 1st ascents of Mur Samir (5008m), Karyshkyr (4836m) and Pik False (4801m)


European & World Youth Championships and Outdoor Sport Climbing
Europe
2010

Eleanor Hopkins competes in EYS and the World Youth Championships, visits Malham in England, Ceuse in France and Dunkeld in Scotland, ticking Hamish Teds (F7b ).


Jopuno
Sikkim
2010

Geoff Cohen, Dick Isherwood, Steve Kennedy, Bob Hamilton, Dave Ritchie and Paul Swinton climb on Lama Lamani and attempt west ridge of Jopuno


World Youth, European Youth & British competitions
Europe
2009
Natalie Berry competes in three EYS competitions (4th place in Edinburgh) and World Youth Comp in France (12th place). Also British lead comp (1st place)


European Youth Series & British Championship competitions
Europe
2009
Jonathan Field competes in the EYS (Munish, Edinburgh & Slovenia) and the BBC (2nd place) and BLCC (3rd place)

EYS



Cima Grande
Dolomites
Italy

2009

Jonathan Stocking (16) climbs the Brandler Hass route on Cima Grande (E5 7a)


Kangerdluarssugssuaq and Northumberland Island
Greenland
2009

A true Tilman-esqe trip in a boat from Scotland to Greenland making 1st ascents at Akuliarusinguaq, Upernavik and Northumberland Island


Gaseland
East Greenland
Greenland
2009

A school expedition succeeded on first ascents of Tiraluin (1774m), Mount Glasgow (1820m) and Academy Peak (1763m)


Wrangle
St Elias Range
Alaska
2009

The South West Spur of Mt Vancouver’s satellite peak ‘Good Neighbour’ was climbed Alpine style in a team of two.


Ice World Cup Climbing Competitions
Europe
2008-9
Steven Addison becomes the youngest ever climber to take part in the Ice World Cup competitions



Sports Climbing and World Cupo competitions
Europe
2008
Alan Cassidy atten ded Bern and Imst World Cups; onsighted 8a at Gorge du Tarn, France, and redpointed 8b/8c at Rodella, Spain


World Yoyuth Climbing Competition
Australia
2008
Robert Mackenzie gains 21st place at the WYC at Sydney


World Youth Comp



Cordillera Oriental
Peru
2008

An attempt on the SW Face of Nevado Huagaruncho failed due to poor weather. 2 new routes were climbed on a 5,000m rock peak in the Blanca.


Greenland Crossing
Greenland

2008


A Territorial Army team of nine crossed the ice cap following F Nansen's route of 1888



Staunings Alps
Greenland
2007

Eight team members climbed 17 1st ascents of peaks around the Lang Glacier


Ruth Gorge
Alaska
2007

The 1st ascent of the Mount Hut Coulour between Werewolf and Hut Tower


Ruth Amphitheatre
Alaska
2007

Viv Scott & Gareth Hughes make the 1st ascent of the East Face of Dan Beard, Ruth Amphitheatre (Sideburn Rib IV)


Tafraoute Anti Atlas
Morocco
2006
Guy Robertson and Trevor Woods visit Tafraoute establishing numerous 1st ascents including The Flying Scotsman (E6)


Miln Land
Greenland
2006


Based on Charcotgletscher Glacier, team did 12 peaks including two 1st ascents and 2nd ascent of 'Zippy Goes to Greenland'



Miyar Valley
India
2006


Olliver Metherall leads a team on the 1st ascents of Goya Peak, Gateway Peak & Black Peak



Himalaya
Nepal
2006


After retreating from N W Ridge of Ama Dablam, Alasdair Coull & Sam Chinnery climbed the 2nd ascent of North Face of Kwangde Lho



Coast Range
British Columbia
Canada
2005

Atempted the NW Piller of The Athena Tower of Mt Zeus.  Complete 1st ascent of the NW Ridge of Mt Zeus (TD); 2nd ascent NW Ridge Mt Fenris (AD)


Cordillera Huayhuash & Cordillera Blanca
Peru
2005

Poor snow and unstable glacier conditions thwart an atempt on Rondoy. Exploration of Tsacra Grande & Copa Massif in Cordillera Blanca


Tre Cime Dolomites
Italy

2004

Dave MacLeod and Scott Muir attempted a repeat of Bellavista (F8c)


Cordillera Vilcanota
Peru

2004

1st ascent of Scottish Spur of Kiru (5720m); probable 1st ascents of Inchu Ananat (5720m) & Ninaparaco (5930m) on Jatunhuma by Geoff Cohen, Des Rubens, Steve Kennedy and Dave Wilkinson


Cordillera Huayhuash
Peru
2004



Kokshaal Too
Kyrgyzstan
2004




Staunings Alps

Greenland

2003



SMC East Greenland Expedition


Lemon Mountains

Greenland

2003




Coast Range

British Columbia

Canada

2002

Alpine style ascents of Mount Gilbert by the NW Shelf route and 1st ascent of unnamed peak



Kokshaal Too

Kyrgyzstan

2002




Lofoten Islands

Norway

2001




Cordillera Blanca

Bolivia

2001



Staunings Alps

Greenland

2001



Cordillera Blanca

Bolivia

2000




Garwhal Himalaya

2000



Central Karakorum
Pakistan
1999

Ascents of Biacherahi Tower NW Ridge (1st British Ascent); The Indian (Doug Scott) Spur (5000m) by a new line on the West Wall; and Hanispur (6047m) by the North Ridge and believed to be a first ascent



Greenland

1999

A ski crossing from the western ice cap to the east; the first ascents of four unclimbed peaks; two further ascents of peaks first ascended in 1997.


Cordillera Apolobamba

Bolivia

1999

17 climbs from D to AD, including six possible first ascents


Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Apolobamba & Central

Bolivia

1998

First ascents of Santa Rosa East Ridge, Jachacaupiroja, Jachacunocollo Soth West Ridge; Montserrat South, Llongote Norte North slope, and others


Baltoro Region

Pakistan

1998

The expedition came to within 300m of the summit



Cordillera Real

Bolivia

1998

First ascents of: Cerro Taruca Umana East Ridge, South Ridge, The Cornflake East face, Grobe Mauer East Ridge/North Face


Cape Farewell

Greenland

1997

First ascent of Magic Arrow Spire and 18 other routes



Sondre Sermilik/Lindenows

Greenland

1997

Several first ascents in the area


Annapurna Himalaya

Nepal

1997

This Forces team came very close to ascent


Tharpu Saltire



Himachal Pradesh
India
1997

First ascent of the North Face of The Throne



Cordillera Real and Apolobamba

Bolivia

1997

Condoiri, Huayna Potosi, Sorel Oeste S ridge and SW face, Pico del Norte Austrian Route, Illampu W face



Himalaya

Nepal

1997

Failed at 6200m on Pumori via the south-east ridge



Himachal Pradesh
India
1996

First ascent of Kulu Eiger



Staunings Alps

Greenland

1996

A team of eight climbed and named previously unclimbed peaks



Himalaya

Nepal

1996

A team of five made it to 5,800m on Ama Dablam



Tien Shan

Kyrgyzstan

1995

Attempt on Khan Tengri. Ascents of Teke-Tor, Izyskatel North Face, Ak-Too East Face (new), Tien Shanski, Korona and others



Karakorum

Pakistan

1994

Ascent of Jog's Peak and Nasar (Pyramid) Peak



Central Caucasus

Russia

1994

A traverse of Bezingi Wall



Central Caucasus

Russia

1994

Repeats of Lyalver N Ridge, Ull-auz-Bashi N Ridge, Shkhara Tomaschek Rib



Everest Himalaya

Nepal

1993

First Irish ascent of Everest


Irish Everest Expedition



Tien Shan

Kyrgyzstan

1993

Khan--Tengri south face attempted. Ascents made via north and west faces



Cordillera Real

Bolivia

1993

Ascent of Huyana Potosi



Karakorum

Pakistan

1993

Poor weather thwarts any summit attempts



Tasilaq Fjord Region

Greenland

1993

An attempt on Lauper Bjerg North East Ridge


Garwhal Himalaya

India

1992

An attempt on the south East Ridge of Nilkanth



Himachal Pradesh

India

1992

Ascended Shithidar and reached the col just below Ladakhi peak



Everest Himalaya

Nepal

1992

14 summiteers via the South Col route and high on West Ridge


British Services Everest Expedition



Gangotri Region

Garwhal Himalaya

India

1989

Reached 19,400ft on Bhrigupanth



Xinjian

China

1988

Climbed 5 of the 7 peaks targeted


Shiwakti SMC Centenary Expedition



Kishtwar Himalaya

India

1987

Reached within 400ft of the summit of Hagshu. Went on to successfully climb nearby Chiring



Cordillera Blanca

Bolivia

1987

A traverse of the summits of Huandoy Este, Norte and Oeste



Cordillera Blanca

Bolivia

1986

Routes on Pukashellash, Milpoqraju Este and Maparaju Oeste


Yorkshire Schools Exploring Society Peru Expedition



Kishtwar Himalaya

India

1986

The first ascent of Dandagopurum.



Kishtwar Himalaya

India

1981

The team of six, from Oxford University Mountaineering Club, made a successful ascent of the north face of Agyasol