Scotland's Best Walks: Beinn Alligin

Lying on the north side of Loch Torridon to the west of Liathach and Beinn Eighe, Beinn Alligin is the easiest and least complex of the big three Torridonian mountains. It is a fine triple-topped massif, curving around the south-east facing corrie of Toll a’ Mhaidaidh Mòr. Tom Na Gruagach forms the left side of the corrie whilst the higher Sgùrr Mòr sits at the back with the distinctive great cleft of the Eag Dubh falling from its summit. The lowest of the three peaks is Na Rathanan, the Horns of Alligin, which forms the prominent ridge on the right side of the corrie. The classic view of the mountain is across Loch Torridon from the road on its south side, just west of the head of the loch. Turn off the A896 at the mouth of Glen Torridon and follow the narrow road through Torridon village and west along the north side of Loch Torridon towards Inveralligin, for almost 3 miles (5km), to reach a car park at NG869576 on the south side of the road. This is immediately west of the stone bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil at the entrance to Coire MhicNòbaill, the deep glen between Beinn Alligin and Liathach.

From the west side of the bridge, follow a stalkers’ path north-northwest towards the foot of Coire nan Laogh, the narrow corrie which has been scooped out of the side of the southern end of the mountain.

Pass below Na Fasreidhnean, the flanking buttress on the left, and climb up the east side of the burn in the corrie to reach Tom na Gruagaich, whose stone trig point is perched on the edge of cliffs plunging into Toll a’ Mhadaidh Mòr (3km; 880m; 2h 10min). Descend steeply north down a narrow rocky crest to the col (767m) forming the lowest point between the mountains then climb a broader ridge, which is still precipitous on its east side. Cross a minor top (c857m)then a level section and ascend past the spectacular cleft of the Eag Dhubh na h-Eigheachd, the black cleft of the wailing; it is worth going up the slight rise onto Sgùrr na Tuaigh, which overlooks the cleft. A short climb above the cleft gains

Sgùrr Mòr’s summit and superb views, especially to the east where the impressive slender crest of the Horns of Alligin captures the eye with Liathach and Beinn Eighe beyond (4.75km; 1125m; 3h).

The quickest and easiest return is by the route of ascent (9.5km; 1265m; 4h 40min). However, a much better route is to complete the traverse via the slender castellated crest of Na Rathanan; the Horns of Alligin. Descend steeply east down a narrow ridge to a col (c760m) and traverse the three Horns; (866m), (854m) and (815m). There is a path over these rocky tops, which give some easy, but in places, exposed scrambling. Keeping pretty much to the crest on the first two tops, then just to the right by a chimney on the third top, gives the easiest and safest line. From the third top (An t-Sàil Bheag), continue south-east down the ridge. Towards the bottom of this, the slope steepens considerably before the angle eases and a stalkers’ path coming down from the Bealach a’ Chòmhla to the north, is joined. Cross a footbridge over the Allt a’ Bhealaich, then another over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil and continue along the path on the south bank to the road (10km; 1280m; 5h 5min).